Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
