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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. But, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.